Wednesday, May 27, 2015

An End to an Era

If you are reading this blog for the first time, please consider backing up the the beginning. The very beginning if time allows it. Stories are always richer when told from where they first started.


       With my Fulbright experience officially concluded, I've had a lot of time to reflect, and a lot of time to continue sharing all that Nepal has meant to me.
         I characterize my experience by many things; by the 9-month period it lasted, by my officially grant duties of teaching English in a rural Nepali government school, by the culture and family that shaped my time there. It was an era of tea in the mornings and York Mints and Smarties at night if I still had any left to fish out of my bag; of Dahl Bhat eaten with my hands; of skeptically considering foods and then shrugging my shoulders and simply crossing my fingers with the hope that it wouldn't make me sick.

             It was an era of entering bare concrete classrooms in the arms of first and second grade students who had literally dragged me there (all the while fighting for the privilege to carry my school bag and hang it on the door knob); of my student Sanju crying "Miss, miss!" in her high-pitched voice, until she got my attention and could ramble off, in her six-year-old way, some new story that she'd been waiting all morning to share. An era of experiencing the indescribable happiness of placing a crayon in a child's hand. 

         It was an era of having a little sister and a newborn baby brother for the first time. Of loving every time a neighbor questioned in amazement how I'd managed to learn Nepali in such a short amount of time; An era of bus rides crammed next to locals, where I was either straddling a goat or handed a stranger's child to rest on my lap. An era of photocopies and lamination. An era of handing out chocolate and activity books and taking deep breathes in the thick of chaos. An era of loving new things, of tremendous learning curves, of humbling beginnings. 

This is Nepal. This is my Nepal. And I wouldn't have had it any other way. 

         Thank you for taking each step with me, for caring, and for spreading my words across the world. I'm so grateful to have had the opportunity to share Nepal. These pages allowed me to tell my stories to friends and family with much more clarity and richness. It allowed me to share with those who weren't here to hear them when I returned. For that, I'll be forever grateful. 

I hope you too find a way to share your stories. Please don't hesitate to contact me in person. I'm always happy to share more, to hear your stories, and to continue expanding our connections in this great big world. 

Namaste,
    Lisa

*This blog is dedicated to two of my biggest fans - two individuals who always encouraged me to share my stories, and who shared their stories with me. 

R.I.P. Leslie Schroeder
R.I.P. Grandpa Chuck Stelling



Saturday, May 23, 2015

Calling Nepal

         When I came home, when I stepped foot off of the last airplane, I had three sets of loving arms to embrace, and a beautiful bouquet of roses from my boyfriend, John. I've enjoyed meal after meal of the things I craved for 9 months - salads and the crispness of raw vegetables, frozen yogurt, baked salmon, greek yogurt topped with granola, sushi, water straight from the tap. I've taken numerous hot showers - none of which I have taken for granted. I've felt carpet under my feet and the luxury of indoor heating. I've hiked along Port Townsend beaches and cherished the long-overdue conversations between good friends. 

       But every few nights I pick up the phone, abandon whatever I'm doing and leave the room, to "call Nepal." It usually takes a few attempts and some finger-crossing to get the call to go through. But it's worth it every time. From the other end I'll hear Sachina's cheerful laughter and my Bauju's accent as she answers the phone with a familiar "Hallo?"

      Our voices mingle in happy conversation as I ask the usual Nepali questions: "Are you healthy?" "Have you had tea?" "Have you eaten?" "Has Bai (the baby) gotten any bigger yet?"

      She'll answer, and luckily it's been only good news. My town was fortunately mostly unharmed in the earthquake. Though it's been an emotional burden for all, our house and school suffered only minimal damage and everyone I knew in the community is said to be alive and well. I feel very fortunate for this, though I wish I could have been there to hold their hands through the process and the fear of the event. 

     Now that the worst has past my family is enjoying the growth of the new baby and using the extended holidays to spend more time together. My Bauju often asks how I enjoy being with my American family and if I've been playing cards with John like I used to play with her every night. She often puts Sachina's sweet voice up to the phone, despite the fact that I can't understand her five-year-old Nepali over the phone. Bauju tells me every time that they miss me and to "come quickly." I always say I will. 

    It feels good to be home. As wonderful, inspiring, and joyful as the experience was, it was also exhausting, frustrating, and challenging. And for that, it was time to come home - to see family, to put exercise back into my lifestyle, and to mentally process everything. 

But I do plan to go back "quickly." Whenever that time may come.

 

        When I think back to it, when the pictures pull me back to that place, I miss the singing. I miss the smiles of the students when they came together in unison for a song. I miss the eyes looking up at me and the intense excitement and hope in their faces when we started a guessing game. I miss the tea and eating rice with my hands. I miss watching dots connect in a student's mind when they filled out the activity books I'd created. I miss playing cards with Bauju and holding Bai in the mornings. I miss his cooing laughs and Sachina's giggles.

I placed this quote on my cap at graduation exactly one year ago.
 But I suspect it's one I'll be using all of my life. 

"How lucky I am to have something that makes saying goodbye so hard."
- A. A. Milne

Goodbye, Nepal. Until I come again. 







*Photo credit to Sam Lovetro for the last three photos. 


Friday, May 22, 2015

Trekking

      After my grant officially ended, two other Fulbrighters and I spent two weeks trekking through the mountains of Langtang. Two weeks well spent. 

     It felt great to spend the day with no other focus or worry than simply hiking our way to the next village on our route. It was both mentally and physically refreshing. In addition, I encountered an almostly completely new culture (that of the Buddhism-influenced Nepal) and many new wonderful people. 
      Though I also have many of words to share about this experience exclusively, I'm limiting this to a post of photos. They capture the feeling, the awe-inspiring views and wonder, best. Long story short? If you ever find yourself asking the question, "Should I spend two weeks or more dedicating the entirety of my day to hiking through breath-taking mountains," know that the answer should always be yes. 



With the Mountains of Tibet in the Background


Skirting the Edge of the Mountains

Ellen with one of our trusted guides

A Buddhist Wedding

Forests and River Trails

Taking It All In

Here especially - Beauty is Everywhere

Bridge Crossing


Langtang Mountains
Kyanjin-Ri: The Day We Became "Real" Mt. Climbers

A Buddhist Gompa

A Bridge Along the Trail


Memories of a Lifetime


Other Note-worthy Travels in Nepal:

A Lake Near Pokhara
View over Pokhara
Kushma Bridge
(the longest and highest suspension bridge in Nepal)

*Unfortunately, the Langtang area in which we trekked was one of the areas hardest hit with destruction by the recent earthquake. If you are interested in donating, here is the link to an organization getting aid specifically to those communities. It is affiliated with people I knew while in Nepal and trust it will make good use of any donations. (You can donate through the little blue button in the top right corner of their page).

http://langtangdisaster.org/en/

Another local relief effort:  https://life.indiegogo.com/fundraisers/relief-for-ramche/x/10975577
                            
Thanks!

Thursday, May 21, 2015

Tika and Glass Boxes: How to Say Goodbye

        There are some things that Nepalis just do right. I've been through a lot of cultural adjustment over the past nine months, but there were a few Nepali customs that immediately caught my eye as significantly better in so many ways than the American customs I've grown up with. Example: Nepali hospitality. Their insistence on providing tea and a place to sit to all guests, though at times overwhelming, is one of the most consistent kindnesses I've ever experienced. The Nepali saying that "a guest is god" has developed into a loving warmth that has met me at every doorway. 
        Another thing Nepalis do right? Waste. or I suppose I should say the lack of waste. Almost everything we ate came package-free, straight from a local farm. Milk was bottled in reusable plastic jars; tea, flour, and beans scooped directly from a large burlap sack. Except for the wrapped candies and ramen from my Bauju's store, there was very little plastic or paper to throw out. A months worth of waste in Nepal is comparable to the waste we often accumulate in just a few hours in the U.S. 
       As my last days in Gorkha crept around the corner, I came to recognize another shining star in Nepali tradition: the art of saying goodbye. I grew incredible close to my students, co-teachers, and family after many months of living in Gorkha. I expected a heart-wrenching, tear-filled goodbye of people asking me not to go and me awkwardly repeating that I had to. I suppose I expected this in part because sometimes Nepalis show they care by guilt-tripping you: "Why were you gone so long?" "You'll forget about us the week after you leave," "You don't like the food, do you?" In America, we'd call it uncomfortable. In Nepal, it's called showing you care.
      So of course, going into my last days of goodbye, I suspected questions more difficult than the one's I normally got from my first and second graders

      But to my surprise, I was dead wrong. In fact I've never seen a group of people do goodbye better. It started with my Bidai, a farewell ceremony where the teachers covered my face in red tika as a blessing and students handed me armfuls of flowers. 





         The gifts and smiles overwhelmed me in love. The red powder took days to fully remove. So did the heartwarming feeling that came with.
         As my "Thank You" I created a scrapbook of photos for the school and wrapped/signed over 270 presents for all of my students (better not to leave anyone out). For my most cherished classes (1, 2, & 5) I printed out photos for each student, to give them something to remember me by, even when they are older and graduating to high school and beyond. I hope sincerely to be an enduring memory in their hearts and minds.



         On my final morning, students came early to sit with me and snap pictures together. As I said my final goodbye to teachers, they repeated with a happiness similar phrases: "Go well," "Safe Travels," "We will miss you," and "Don't forget us, okay?"

        The last one got me every time. But neither the hugs of my favorite teachers, nor my final wave to my students were tear-filled. In fact, they were filled with joy. And I was both amazed, and incredibly grateful, for the Nepali ability to say goodbye with joy. In the same way they drink tea in the mornings, in the same way they dance or sing songs to the beat of a madal drum - My Nepali family bid me goodbye with joy.

....and with several glass boxes filled with fake flowers and cheesy sayings from "Best Wishes" to "Happy Birthday." I don't know who started this trend, but they've really started quite a business. They also gave me and the other Fulbrighters a good laugh as we lined our gifts up in the Kathmandu apartment (over 25 glass boxes in all). "It's the thought that counts." But, of course, I don't need twelve glass boxes to remember my Nepali family and my time in Gorkha. That comes with ease. 


Tuesday, April 14, 2015

Teaching Successes


          I should not have left this post until the end. That is, I should not have tried to fit an entire seven months’ worth of teaching successes into one small text box. It should have become a trilogy, or at least its own small chapter book. In writing this post, I realized I have about thirty of my “best” pictures from the classroom to share and a million and one words to say about my teaching here. It’s a good thing there are so many positive things to share, though, of course. It’s a true reflection of how I glow with joy every time I think of my students, the projects we’ve done together, and the progress they have made. I know much of my blog has strongly reflected my concerns and challenges with teaching here. It’s time to talk about the successes. Despite the chaos of the Nepali education system, I still look back on every day, or almost every day, with laughter, love, and hope for the future.



          To begin with, the last three or four months have been a million times easier than the first few. Living in a new place and entering a new education system really did require a steep learning curve. And somewhere around November, more so around January, I finally felt like I had it made. The students knew the songs we sang each morning by heart. My second graders were used to the routine of receiving stars for homework and losing stars for misbehavior. My first graders, though still chaotic, grew accustomed to the activity books and started finishing them faster than ever. They grew to know the instant I picked up the pink bag that I was handing out candy for finished work. It's amazing how fast first graders will stop talking when they know they are going to get candy.

 

        My first graders' progress in English skyrocketed at some point. Though I’m not sure when. While reading story books my students started putting together words that we had learned separately, like “cat sleep!” One of the most amazing feelings was watching their thought process as they matched words to pictures or filled back through the activity books to find answers.  I quickly learned to always provide the answer to each question somewhere in the book, so that when they asked how to spell something, I could tell them to look in the book, instead of wasting time giving them the answer. My students learned to teach themselves, to find their own answers – an important skill in a class of forty students.


         I learned how to check the copies quickly, sometimes flipping through them quick enough to finish in my 30 minute free period, more often than not taking them home with me and continuing to check until the sun went down. I’ve poured heart and soul into creating books, cutting out animal shapes, drawing coloring sheets, and writing out grammar quizzes for longer than I can remember. It’s hard to imagine back seven months ago when I wasn’t so intensely involved with my work here, as it feels so normal now. No matter how exhausting, I would do it all over again in a heartbeat. When you care, you but in your heart and soul without question.



          Another great success took place in a classroom with significantly less screaming, fifth grade.  After spending over four hours grading the second fifth grade exam it became quite obvious to me that the students had passed the test merely by guessing (many of the questions are true/false or fill in the blank). Almost every student had a very mixed outcome - some able to answer the very difficult vocabulary questions but missed all of the simple present tense questions, some able to guess the present perfect but unable to write even one complete sentence in a "letter to the principle." Only three or four students out of eighty correctly answered the questions: “What did you do yesterday?” though they could answer “How many fish were in the pond?” – a reading text question that had been drilled into them without most actually having understood the story the question stemmed from. I was done. This was ridiculous. It was a complete waste of time teaching textbook material, when students had such low levels of English that they had to guess their way through present and simple past tense.

           So, I finally asked if I could teach grammar – and only grammar. To my surprise, my co-teacher agreed. We’ve had a very successful two months focusing on present tense, present continuous, yes/no questions, negative, and past. The students were asked to make their own sentences, instead of copying out the book. Students wrote about themselves, tested their knowledge through games, and over the last few days crafted letters to my mother’s fifth grade class in the US. Fifth grade became one of my favorite classes, and though many of them are still very weak in English, I feel so much better knowing I gave them a fighting chance; that someone finally sat down with them and said “let’s go back to present tense.”

Me with my fifth grade students
           Finally, my very favorite teaching success, besides my activities books and songs, revolves around one specific item: crayons. If I’m remembered for anything at my school, it’ll be that I gave out chocolate and crayons. Chocolate, as motivation and as my last resort for dealing with discipline. And crayons, for everything else. For the past few months, my goal has been for my students to create. This is something that is almost entirely left out of the Nepali education system, at least until high school. Students rarely ever create anything that is their own.



         So each day, I carried a bag of crayons with me to class, and often small sheets of white printer paper too. If I didn't bring the crayons to class, my students would be asking for them. We cut and crafted and colored, and put a good portion of the things we made on the walls (turns out it's totally acceptable to glue things to the walls in Nepal). I couldn’t have been more proud of my students in seeing their work.


          In class two and three, my students created beautiful calendars on which they mark the date every day. In addition to our new “January, February…” song, this finally gave the confusing English Calendar some meaning for my students. In class two, we’ve also decorated the wall with the names of fruits and vegetables, the Nepali national symbols, and other coloring pages. I’ve spent much of my timing coloring with class two, as usually I have them at the end of the day – and by that time, all they and I alike want to do is color. John joked with me that that might be my Nepali equivalent of putting on a movie – but I still feel like any time them can create something of their own it’s a worthy lesson. And now they know the colors extra well :)
   





          My class two also created their own mini books, following the format “On Sunday, ____. On Monday, I _____” ect. This helped them to put together their own sentences. They also bravely each read aloud their book to the class. This was definitely one of my favorite projects.



            Lastly, a new addition to my schedule: Creative arts. At some point, one of the teachers at my school asked me what I thought she should do in Creative Arts. She’d studied Nepali after graduating high school and had no experience or training in teaching the arts. Join that with a complete lack of materials, and she had no idea how to teach the subject (I wouldn’t either if I was in her position). So, for the past two months, twice a week I join in on a Creative Arts class with class four – which also keeps them from being too jealous that they were the grade I somehow left out of my schedule.

      We’ve done some really fun projects, the majority involving crayons – another reason why I’m going to be remembered as the crayon girl. We’ve created a puzzle-style “welcome” poster that we posted on the wall. Students have cut out their own snowflakes, colored art that focused on negative light (the tree drawings), and tried some of the coloring projects I remembered doing as a kid in middle school. One of my favorite projects was where the students colored a heart and wrote inside of it what was in their heart – their favorite activities, people, food, and places. Whenever we could, we glued their work to the walls. Nepali culture is very joyful, it was my determination to allow them to show it visually in the classroom as well. The class gave me a break from class one – which was needed, going in there three times a day was much too exhausting – and gave them a needed break from memorizing, allowing them to just be kids, and to create something of their own. The excitement, joy, and expression I saw in that class will stay with me for a very long time.












            Other successes? My students learned addition (finally). My kindergarten students were exposed to what could have been their first-ever story book ever. My class three students actually learned how to be quiet for a few minutes and enjoyed my games so much that they continued to play them once I had left the class. My class 2 students have played Simon Says type games to learn body parts more times than I can count and all passed my General Knowledge exam with flying colors.
       
 
           I taught simple multiplication in less than a week and my first graders understood it (many of them anyways). One of my co-teachers has been coming early every morning for me to help her learn English. Another co-teacher has picked up my songs, games, and teaching style incredibly well and has promised to continue to use the material I leave her when I go. I often hear “wake, wake, wake up” in a sing-songy voice coming from far off classrooms. First grade students that couldn’t (or wouldn’t) write any English at the beginning of the year are now starting to complete the activity book I labeled “Advanced.” ALL of my fifth graders now know how to answer the question “What did you do yesterday?”


            I’ve never lived and worked so long in one place before. I’ve never been in and out of the same concrete classrooms for so many days in a row; Never had such a strong memorization of my students’ names and faces.
    
        If you have to leave a place – leave it successfully. Saying goodbye is going to be hard, but my heart will be warm, knowing that what I'm leaving behind, my impact, will be more than just a few laminated teaching materials stocked in the library. I hope they'll remember me as clearly as I'll remember them. And I hope the songs, and the example I set for what teaching can be, will continue to ring through those concrete walls for many years. Gosh - I miss them so much already <3